Saturday, November 4, 2023

Avoiding the Ice Crazies Through Strategic Use of Sunlight

Last week we talked about the social and recreational environment inside the base. But for many, it's the outside that draws their attention. Of course, we're all mesmerized by the Antarctic environment—just being here is often fulfilling enough for those of us not inclined to the outdoors. But for those with a hunger to explore, or just better hiking shoes, there are plenty of outdoor activities to engage with.

Before we begin, however, let's take a moment to discuss health and safety—just like I had to. I mentioned in a previous article how much focus on safety there is, and the same is true for recreational safety. The Outdoor Safety Lecture is the standard for all program members to get them acquainted with the procedure to explore wisely. Importantly for long hikes, we're shown the process of checking in with Comms and keeping in contact. Most long hikes require you to have at least two people and meet with the communication team, set up an estimated return time, and take a radio with you. If you don't return by the estimated time, or answer any emergency radio contact, then the whole search and rescue team—including the helicopters—have to mobilize to find you. So if you were already home and in bed, that's going to be a real embarrassing conversation later.

Hiking is probably the main outdoor activity down here. There are a surprising number of trails available, with some as short as a mile and change, and others a full nine-mile excursion. We have fifteen marked trails, although some of those are trails within other trails. Each line is carefully marked as to avoid anyone wandering off the trail, or worse, into a dangerous ice field. Crevasses are a common feature out here, often hard to identify due to the snow, and very often far deeper than you expect. A crevasse that looks a few inches across on the surface can be tens of feet deep, and still wide enough to get caught in. So when hiking, following the guidelines is critical.

The shortest and likely the easiest hike is to Hut Point. Called such because of the original exploration hut that still resides there, Hut Point has a lot of history behind it and probably deserves it's own article in the coming weeks. Hut Point is visible from most points in McMurdo and offers a great view of the station on one side and the sea ice on the other. It's where I've seen some seals pop up and sunbathe themselves as well.

Another hike of import is Observation Hill. Affectionately known as Ob Hill, Ob is practically right in town and visible from pretty much anywhere. It's not uncommon to look out the galley window during breaks (at any time of the day) and see people standing on the summit. At only 750 feet high, Ob Hill isn't a real mountain climb, but it certainly gives a great top-down view of the base. Ob Hill is also home to the Everest Challenge. If you climb Ob Hill thirty-nine times, you'll have climbed just a few feet more than the height of Mount Everest. For accomplishing this feat, you receive the prestigious award of a cool sticker. Our executive sous chef Max has already accomplished this feat, as have others, and the many main body hikers are well on their way. There is even a story passed around from some past year where one person did the Everest Challenge in one day. Sounds like madness to me, but this place gets you like that.

The most ambitious hike here is the Castle Rock Loop. A full nine miles from beginning to end, this hike takes you to the iconic Castle Rock, a large crag that served as a landmark for explorers back in the day. It's a red-brown rock that contrasts dramatically with the white and blacks of the snow and rock. It's not uncommon for this trek to take seven hours or more, so there's some careful planning that needs to go into undertaking it. Information from Comms. and the weather team is the most important part before setting out. Just because the weather is nice at the station doesn't mean that it won't turn on a dime and make you scramble for your survival bag. There are a few huts along the way for shelter. Though sparse, they'll get you out of the wind and let you warm up. Once at Castle Rock, if you included it in your itinerary for Comms., you can climb to the top for a unique look at Antarctica. The Loop is for the most seasoned hikers, and not one that someone like me might readily undertake.

Although I keep mentioning hiking, there are a couple other options as well. We've got access to wide-tire terrain bikes, if you want to make the Castle Rock Loop in five hours, rather than seven. While you do have to be aware of the ice, the bikes are surprisingly stable and the ride is fun. While you won't be making any Tour de France showings, it's another great story to tell. Along with bikes, cross-country skies are also available, with some specific paths dedicated to them. While you can still make the Loop and other straight hikes with the skis, you also have access to some of the airfields and outposts.

There are plenty of opportunities to tour the continent if you're willing to put in the effort. A hike in this climate will definitely take its toll on you, different to most hikes you might be familiar with. But for the chance to see parts of the world so few people get to see and experience the unique beauty of it, what better reward could you ask for?

Just don't forget your check-in times. Seriously. The embarrassment is palpable.

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