Monday, November 20, 2023

The Past, Frozen in Time

The wild, untamed nature of Antarctica is part of its charm, but it's also underlined by the history that covers it. Explorers have been coming to the edge of the world for a long time, with the first landing on the main continent of Antarctica probably taking place in 1821. A lot of dedication and lives went into making all this possible, and it's something that everyone here feels in some regard. From the various historical artifacts on display, to the pictures on the walls, to the names of mountains and landmarks, my daily experience is steeped in the history of this place. And is most clearly shown in the Discovery Hut.

Viewable from most places on station, Discovery Hut on Hut Point is a moment in history that stands to this day. With careful tending from those who came before, this historic structure reminds everyone of who came before and what they had to go through. Now over a hundred years later, having the chance to look inside and get a feel for what life was life is pretty amazing.

(Zoomed in view of the hut from the chapel in town.)

I'm not a historian, so I won't try and give you the full details of everything that surrounded the hut and the expedition that allowed it to be built. As a short overview, Discovery Hut was built in 1902 by Robert Falcon Scott and his expedition team during the Discovery Expedition, 1901-1904. While it was supposed to serve as a land main base and living quarters, it was hard to keep warm and mostly used for storage; the crew that would use it spent most of their living on the ship. It was used by a few more exploration parties during the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration before being left behind and buried under snow. It was found again in 1956, remarkably well-preserved, (we'll get to that later), and was
eventually declared a historic monument under the Antarctic Treaty.

The Wikipedia article can give you just as much context if your curiosity has been sufficiently whet. So let me just tell you about what it's like to actually see the hut and go inside it.

But before we head inside, let me introduce you to Nigel. I don't know if there's an official name for this seal, but I'm calling him Nigel.

(Nigel has had a rough few decades.)

Nigel here is a great example of what happens to life out here. He's basically totally mummified. While it's doubtful he was there during the 1902 exploration, Nigel has been around for a long time. There are a number of places around where you can come across similarly mummified penguins and skuas. Because of the freezing temperatures, most things that die and don't get immediately eaten tend to just end up preserved. The same is true for things like rations and leathers (foreshadowing).

Now one interesting thing about the modern buildings is that they all have double entrances. The door you enter typically leads into a smaller space with another door that opens into the building. The first door is almost always unlocked, even if the entrance door is locked. I've had to duck into a building before just to generate some warmth before heading back out. I bring this up because the hut has the same feature, an entrance to the facility and an indoor entrance to the main building. Off to the side is a room where hung seal blubber and some skulls sit, still mostly intact and preserved.

(Reminds me of my closet back home. Need to clean that....)

Inside is not much more than a large box, still full of many of the supplies and items that the team left behind. The room is sectioned off with heavy curtains, a tradition that lives on here at McMurdo to keep your bed private from your roommates. And while I can't imagine it provided much protection, anything that helps keep the wind at bay was likely a welcome addition.

We still see the provisions they left behind, including some hard tack you could probably still eat. But why would you, honestly? Off to the side is some additional seal blubber and skins, again well-preserved and fascinating to see.

(Basically a chocolate chip cookie....)

There are really only three rooms: the central storage room, the living space with the stove and sleeping pallets, and what was apparently a lab.

(Gift Shop)

(Home Sweet Frostbite)

(Mad Science Lab)

Admittedly, even after seeing it in person, there's not much spectacle to it. But the weight of the history it represents can't be overstated. I'd have regretted it had I not taken the time to tour it, and even with my poor photography skills, I think it's a memory I'll hold on to for a long time.

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